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Cabbage |
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Cabbage: Cabbage is one
of the few vegetables which may be had in almost as good
quality from the green-grocer as it can be grown at
home, and as it takes up considerable space, it may
often be advisable to omit the late sorts from the home
garden if space is very limited. The early supply,
however, should come from the garden--some people think
it should stay there, but I do not agree with them.
Properly cooked it is a very delicious vegetable.
What has already been said covers largely the conditions
for successful culture. The soil should be of the
richest and deepest, and well dressed with lime.
Lettuce is grown with advantage between the rows of
early cabbage, and after both are harvested the ground
is used for celery. The early varieties may be set as
closely as eighteen inches in the row, and twenty-four
between rows. The lettuce is taken out before the row is
needed.
The late crop is started in the outside seed-bed about
June 1st to 15th. It will help give better plants to cut
back the tops once or twice during growth, and an
occasional good soaking in dry weather will prove very
beneficial. They are set in the field during July, and
as it often is very dry at this time, those extra
precautions mentioned in directions for setting out
plants, in the preceding chapter, should be taken. If
the newly set plants are dusted with wood ashes, it will
be a wise precaution against insect pests. |
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Cauliflower |
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Cauliflower: The
cauliflower is easily the queen of the cabbage group:
also it is the most difficult to raise.
(1) It is the most tender and should not be set out
quite so early.
(2) It is even a ranker feeder than the cabbage, and
just before heading up will be greatly improved by
applications of liquid manure.
(3) It must have water, and unless the soil is a
naturally damp one, irrigation, either by turning the
hose on between the rows, or directly around the plants,
must be given--two or three times should be sufficient.
(4) The heads must be protected from the sun. This is
accomplished by tying up the points of leaves, so as to
form a tent, or breaking them (snap the mid-rib only),
and folding them down over the flower.
(5) They must be used as soon as ready, for they
deteriorate very quickly. Take them while the head is
still solid and firm, before the little flower tips
begin to open out. |
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Celery |
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Celery: This is another favorite vegetable which
has a bad reputation to live down. They used to plant it
at the bottom of a twelve-inch trench and spend all
kinds of unnecessary labor over it. It can be grown
perfectly well on the level and in the average home
garden.
As to soil, celery prefers a moist one, but it must be
well drained. The home supply can, however, be grown in
the ordinary garden, especially if water may be had in
case of injurious drought.
For the early crop the best sorts are the White Plume
and Golden Self-blanching. Seed is sown in the last part
of February or first part of March. The seed is very
fine and the greatest pains must be taken to give the
best possible treatment. The seed should be pressed into
the soil and barely covered with very light soil--half
sifted leaf-mould or moss. Never let the boxes dry out,
and as soon as the third or fourth leaf comes,
transplant; cut back the outside leaves, and set as
deeply as possible without covering the crown. The roots
also, if long, should be cut back. This trimming of
leaves and roots should be given at each transplanting,
thus assuring a short stocky growth.
Culture of the early crop, after setting out, is easier
than that for the winter crop. There are two systems:
(1) The plants are set in rows three or four feet apart,
six inches in the row, and blanched, either by drawing
up the earth in a hill and working it in about the
stalks with the fingers (this operation is termed
"handling"), or else by the use of boards laid on edge
along the rows, on either side.
(2) The other method is called the "new celery culture,"
and in it the plants are set in beds eight inches apart
each way (ten or twelve inches for large varieties), the
idea being to make the tops of the plants supply the
shade for the blanching. This method has two
disadvantages: it requires extra heavy manuring and
preparation of soil, and plenty of moisture; and even
with this aid the stalks never attain the size of those
grown in rows. The early crop should be ready in August.
The quality is never so good as that of the later crops.
For the main or winter crop, sow the seed about April
1st. The same extra care must be taken as in sowing
under glass. In hot, dry weather, shade the beds; never
let them dry out. Transplant to second bed as soon as
large enough to develop root system, before setting in
the permanent position.
When setting in late June or July, be sure to put the
plants in up to the hearts, not over, and set firmly.
Give level clean culture until about August 15th, when,
with the hoe, wheel hoe or cultivator, earth should be
drawn up along the rows, followed by "handling." The
plants for early use are trenched (see Chapter XIV), but
that left for late use must be banked up, which is done
by making the hills higher still, by the use of the
spade. For further treatment see Chapter XIV.
Care must be taken not to perform any work in the celery
patch while the plants are wet. |
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